Monday, January 30, 2012

New Orleans – city of music and fun

The people of New Orleans are exactly as you would imagine they would be so chilled and laid back one would think that it is impossible for anyone to lose their temper! We were staying a the most wonderful B&B right on the eastern edge of the French Quarter close to Frenchman street which is the new ‘non-touristy’ jazz street. After returning the car that had faithfully taken us across the amazing swamplands and along lake Pontuchurin to New Orleans, we wandered around the shops and sights of Royal Street. The street runs through the heart of the quarter and was once the location of the houses belonging to plantations owners and was where they would spend their months in the city hosting lavish parties, and hence today’s Mardi Gras. A lovely little wine bar was recommended to us, ask any New Orleans person for any recommendation and they have a tale to go with it. Surrounded by tapas and fabulous Californian wine, we watched the world go by. I miscalculated the tip, I blame the 4 glasses of wine and 6 hour driving, and had to go back the following afternoon to rectify it! On our way back to the B&B we stopped in at The Spotted Cat on Frenchman street for a spot of jazz ☺ and where the bathroom came fully equipped with its own piano – Caitriona didn’t play it!
The next morning was an early start as we headed out to visit the plantations along the Mississippi river. Our first stop was a large Greek style house called Oak Alley after the old trees leading up to the main house. Here we had a tour of the house as well as a summary of the history of the plantation where the last owner lived until 1993. The second plantation called Laura, was a fascinating example of Creole architecture and style of living. The history of the plantation has been recorded in the diary of the last owner Laura for whom the plantation was named; and so we learned of life for the people of the house as well as the lives of the many slaves who lived and worked there. Upon return to the city we made our way on the famous St Charles streetcar to the Garden District where both Sandra Bullocks and Nickolas Cage have houses. The beauty of the city and this area in particular is just to wander through the street gazing at the beautiful old houses and wonderful little boutiques. Upon returning to the French Quarter we discovered that the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra was giving a free concert in St. Louis Cathedral that evening and it was truly beautiful.
Another early start on Thursday this time to have coffee and French donuts at the famous 24 hour Café du Monde, which was followed by a visit to the French market before joining our tour of the cemetery history of New Orleans. It is a truly fascinating history of methods of burial, people who have lived in the city and the existence of voodoo in New Orleans! A quick bite was followed by a trip down the Mississpi River on the Creole Queen a paddle boat, to the sight of the battle of New Orleans during the American War of Independence. Upon our return we power walked back up to the North of the French Quarter to visit the Louis Armstrong jazz park before heading back to Frenchmen Street for a final New Orleans meal of amazing fish with a Sicilian twist.
The touring has now come to an end as we make our way through the South on the train up to DC. I shall remain in DC for three weeks before heading to New York for the AAG conference, and although I will be spending this time with wonderful friends I must write the final chapter of my thesis. This has been the most wonderful 5 weeks beginning as I boarded a 6.30am train in Vancouver on the 19th of December with no idea of what this vast diverse country of the US held in store.


The Mississippi


A purely decorative lettuce on the plantations


Bourbon Street

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