Tuesday, April 30, 2013

My Dublin, My Strumpet City

Some may find it surprising that I did not have a relationship with Dublin until 2008. It was always simply a stopoff point from Tipperary on route to the airport when we were children. My two years in boarding school centred around Grafton Street and Ballinteer, and the year of my MPhil within the confines of Trinity. It is only when I retunred to Ireland in September 2008 to complete my PhD at UCD that I developed any knowledge or feelings for Ireland's capital.
It is a turbulent relationship that I have with this city as there is so much that I adore but also so much I abhor. It is a city that has changed so much since the mid 1990s when I first spent any period of time here, but at the same time so much has remained the same. When I meet people who have come to live in Dublin from other parts of the world they have a comparison of where they think Dublin is most like: Washington DC, Boston, Dubai, Melbourne. But I don't think there is anywhere on earth quite like Dublin because it encapsulates a very traditional society struggling to appear 'modern' and this is its most endearing but also frustrating characteristic! Since returning in 2008 I have seen the addition of several festivals as well as a boom in the diversity of ethnic foods from around the world, and all of these make for some great times. However, the political and social management of the city has not changed, and painting over them has only led to deeper cracks in the wall.
There is no better way to truly appreciate the place where you are living for all its wonders and faults then to show around visitors and to have the opportunity to play tourist for a few days. Anna and Hanne Cecilie came for a quick 3 day visit in mid April and provided me with this opportunity. Although brief we managed to fit in a lot of sightseeing and most importantly eating. They got the real Dublin experience listening to me chat up several Dublin taxi drivers, experienced the horror of travelling on Dublin bus hence understanding my cycling and tapped along to the wonderful sounds of trad music in the Cobblestones. Of course the buildings and sights of Dublin bridge the gap between the traditional and the new and I offered them a taste of this with long walks around the parks, Dublin Castle and Chester Beatty Library, the shopping streets and Christ Church. The girls also got to engage with 'new' Dublin enjoying Indian Street food on Moore Street, a modern take on the Irish breakfast in Queen of Tarts, Temple Bar food market and the happy coincidence of a Film Fatale event being on the same weekend.
It was a wonderful weekend and in many ways reminded me of why I like Dublin so much, something I had forgotten of late. Playing tourist was a great opportunity for me to take wonderful pictures of the different sights of Dublin creating memories for my upcoming departure. Dublin will always have a special place in my heart and has been the sight of so many memories with the incredible diverse groups of people that I have known here over the years.  


Yummy phutcha - a reminder of Dhaka days

One of the most beautiful views in Dublin along the River Liffey

Shopping in Cow's Lane

The girls gazing upon some of the legacy buildings of the Celtic Tiger

Hanging with Oscar
Wonderful trad music in the Cobblestones to end the weekend of touristic fun

4 comments:

saoirsa said...

I love your city too. X

linda said...

I want to come visit too. One day inshallah. xx

anna said...

it was a fab weekend, thank you! and it was great re-living it again just now! puss

HC said...

A great weekend indeed! Dublin is a lovely city! And your mother's flat is like a piece of Carcassonne, so I felt I got a bit of that as well, which is good since I won't be able to make it there this summer.